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It's 6.5mm up from the base, not 6mm. See https://www.neutrik.com/media/8570/download/st-nrj6hm-1-pre.PDF?v=2 for details. I'm just checking this for drill patterns, and updating the drill pattern text as well. I'm doing a test enclosure run, because it takes 2+ weeks to get any back, and I have the merge window coming up. So when it's done, maybe I'll have boards and enclosures to actually test. Signed-off-by: Linus Torvalds <torvalds@linux-foundation.org>
87 lines
3.0 KiB
Plaintext
87 lines
3.0 KiB
Plaintext
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7.7mm holes for pots:
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[ -20,40] [ 0,40] [ 20,40 ]
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[ -20,15] [ 0,15] [ 20,15 ]
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12.5mm hole for stomp:
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[ 0, -44 ]
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6mm hole for LED
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[-14, -44 ]
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Vertical space is a bit more exciting and the measurements can't just be
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taken from the PCB. From the top of the *inside* of the 1590B, we have
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9 mm for potentiometer board (7mm for low-profile pots, 1.6mm board)
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11 mm for pin header board-to-board distance
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so the top of the base board is at a minimum 20mm from the inside top of
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the enclosure.
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The Daisy Seed is also 9mm high (with the plastic SWD cover in place),
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and also has the pin header board-to-board connection, so 20mm there
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too.
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Finally, the height of the momentary stomp switch is at about 21mm.
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End result: the stomp switch ends up standing up the highest, but all
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are in the same comfortable ballpark. If the stomp switch was a real
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problem, both the latching "real" 3DPT one (at 16mm high, but needing
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more board space) or the compact one (Tayda A-1884 at 13mm high, but
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smaller switch height) would work.
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Anyway, "20-21 mm vertical space from top of base board" in a 1590B is
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pretty much optimal: the inner enclosure depth is 24.8mm (Hammond says
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25mm, Tayda says 24.9mm, and I'm measuring right under and being
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conservative).
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With the lip of the lid is 2mm (Tayda says 2.1mm), so we basically have
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22.8mm free and clear (and then ~4mm component space inside the lid).
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With the standard PCB thickness of 1.6mm, we're on the money with the
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21mm of vertical space.
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So while the 1590B is actually shallower than the 1590A was, and the
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Neutrik connectors are physically higher than the ones I used for the
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1590A enclosure (13mm vs 11mm), we have less vertical space constraints
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because the audio jacks are not under the potentiometer board so the
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"low profile" setup with the legs sticking out below the potentiometer
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board works better.
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With the top of the base board at 21mm from the (inner) top, the center
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of the audio jack drill will be 14.5mm from the top. The enclosure wall
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thickness is 2mm (Tayda says 2.1mm), so 16.5mm from the outer top.
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Or alternatively, counting from the bottom: 2.1mm lid lip, 1.6mm board
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height, and center of audio jack 6.5mm above board: 10.2 mm from the
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bottom of the 1590B box.
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Tayda's box tool drill pattern measures from the middle, but it's not
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actually clear what the middle of the drill pattern is, since Tayda
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doesn't drill to the lower edge (~1mm space) and I'd have expected not
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into the top of the box (~2.5mm). But the drill tool allows me to
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specify a side drill hole up to 26.5mm high on a 27mm tall side. Funky.
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Result: "3mm from center line" seems to be the right place to drill the
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hole for the audio jack.
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9.5mm side jacks:
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C: [ -3, -26 ]
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E: [ 3, -26 ]
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with rectangular cutouts for the underside:
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C: center:[ -8.75, -26 ] height: 9.5 width :9
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E: center:[ 8.75, -26 ] height: 9.5 width: 9
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and power jack (11.5mm high hole, 9.5mm wide) + 3mm extra from bottom,
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so 15mm high.
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B: center: [ 0, 6 ] height: 14.5 width: 9.5
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