mirror of https://github.com/foostan/crkbd.git
209 lines
6.8 KiB
Markdown
209 lines
6.8 KiB
Markdown
# Build Guide
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This is the build guide for Corne Light v2 Low edition.
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## Parts
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### Required
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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|:-|:-|:-|
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| PCB | 1 set | |
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| Top plate (acrylic) 2mm | 2 sheets | |
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| Bottom foam | 2 sheets | Special foam is cut out with a special mold |
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| OLED protective plate | 2 sheets | |
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| ProMicro | 2 sheets | |
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| TRRS jack | 2 | |
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| Tact switch | 2 | |
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| Diodes | 42 | Recommended SMD Parts |
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| Key switches | 42 | Kailh Choc v1 or v2 recommended |
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| Keycaps | 42 pcs | 1u 40 pcs, 1.5u 2 pcs |
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| Spacer M2 9mm | 4 pieces | |
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| Screw M2 4mm | 8 screws | |
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| TRRS (4 poles) cable | 1 | TRS (3 poles) cable is also acceptable |
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| Micro USB cable | 1 | |
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### Optional
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| Name | Count | Remarks |
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| OLED module | 2 sheets | |
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| Pin header for OLED module 4 series 1.5mm | 2 | |
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| 4 pin sockets for OLED module 2.5mm | 2 | |
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## Advance preparation
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If you build the firmware yourself,
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it takes time to prepare the environment,
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so it is recommended to start first. \
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See <https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
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for more information.
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## Verification
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The PCB for Corne Light v2 is as follows.
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Make sure it is the same as your PCB.
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The PCB comes with a frame for manufacturing reasons.
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You can fold it by hand to remove it, but if it is difficult,
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make a cut in the joint \* with a cutter or similar,
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to make it easier to remove.
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In addition, the joint can be cleaned with a file.
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\* *Joint part: There are a total of 8 parts,
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which are marked in red in the image below.*
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## Assembly
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### Diodes
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Solder diodes for SMD components.
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Since SMD parts are very small,
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it is convenient to have tweezers and counter-acting tweezers.
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**The diode has a fixed mounting direction**,
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so solder it so that the "|" mark on the part faces the "|" on the diode mark "|◁".
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In addition, Corne's PCB has all the same diode mounting orientations.
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<details>
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<summary>TIPS: Tips for installing SMD parts</summary>
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The trick is to attach the SMD parts, but first, as a spare solder,
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put the solder on only one side of the pad.
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Next, solder one leg of the diode so that the spare solder melts.
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At this time, it is recommended to use reverse-action tweezers,
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because you can hold the chip parts firmly without exerting force
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and you can concentrate on alignment and soldering.
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Also, if the soldering iron is too hot or the solder is touched too much,
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the flux contained in the solder may evaporate and form a clean pile of solder,
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but it can be repaired later,
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so at this point you should only care about attaching parts.
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It's okay.
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It is okay if the diode does not float when viewed from the side
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when one foot is attached.
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If it floats, press the diode with tweezers or your fingers
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and reheat the soldered part with a soldering iron to clean it.
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Then solder the other one.
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Be careful not to apply too much,
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as a small amount of solder is sufficient.
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If you apply too much, you can remove it with a blotting wire
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or by scooping it with a soldering iron.
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If the amount of solder on the preliminary solder side is small,
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additional soldering is performed, and if it is a mountain,
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apply flux from above and heat it to clean it.
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</details>
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The diode is completed by soldering 42 pieces in total on the left and right.
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### TRRS jack, reset switch, pin socket for OLED
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Solder the TRRS jack, reset switch (tact switch),
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and OLED pin socket as shown in the picture below.
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Since it is a part that easily slips off,
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you can solder it while holding the part by hand,
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or fix it with masking tape and then solder it.
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### ProMicro
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Solder ProMicro in the following orientation
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If you use spring-loaded pin headers (e.g. Conthrough),
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you do not need to solder the back side.
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Please refer to the [Helix Build Guide](
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https://github.com/MakotoKurauchi/helix/blob/master/Doc/buildguide_en.md#pro-micro)
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for details on how to use spring-loaded pin headers.
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### OLED module
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Insert the pin header into the pin socket for OLED first,
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and then solder the pin header and OLED module.
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At this time, the OLED module is easy to float,
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so be careful not to float it while pressing it with your finger.
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### Firmware
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Write the firmware to ProMicro by referring to the following. \
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<https://github.com/foostan/crkbd/blob/master/doc/firmware_en.md>
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### Operation check
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We recommend that you check the operation when the ProMicro and OLED module are attached.
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If you do it at the very end, it will be difficult to isolate the problem.
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To check the operation,
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connect the left hand side to the PC with MicroUSB,
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and connect the left hand side and the right hand side with the TRRS cable.
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Since there may be defects such as jacks,
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be sure to connect the left and right instead of one by one
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before checking the operation.
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If it is done correctly so far,
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if you short the pad to attach the PCB socket with tweezers etc.,
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the key pressed on the OLED module will be displayed.
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### Top plate, switch
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After attaching the key switch to the top plate, solder the key switch.
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If you attach all the key switches to the top plate first,
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it will be more difficult to attach the switches to the board,
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so it is easier to attach only the end key switches first.
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### OLED protective plate
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Attach the OLED protective plate with M2 9mm spacers and M2 screws.
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Especially for the screws on the back side,
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tighten them firmly to attach the bottom foam after this.
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### Bottom form
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Finally, paste the bottom form.
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This foam has an adhesive surface on one side
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and a non-slip surface on the other side.
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Stick the adhesive side firmly to the PCB.
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That's it.
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